To swim in the surf one has to deal with rolling and crashing waves. Mountains of water building up slowly with a strong pull sucking everything in underneath. Two movements rolling over each other culminating when the crest turns white into absolute chaos.
If you try to stay on top, or if the wave catches you unaware it tumbles you around in its chaotic violence. Dive through before the crest turns white and when you come up on the other side all will be calm. Stay aware and feel the movement, acting in the right moment. The sea is a great teacher.
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